I Prefer To See Things My Way, Not Necessarily The Way They Happened...

Sunday, August 12, 2012

HAMMAM-ING: PURGING THE GRIME AND HEAT OF THE CITY

I've probably lost several pounds in the last week, wandering through Marrakech as temperatures reach the 50's. (about 125 F) Bottle affter bottle of water, not quite cutting it. Add to that, its Ramadan. Everyone is fasting from sunrise to sunset, and there is no eating or drinking in public. No, I'm not Muslim, but I will respect the rules. That includes no bottled water on my walks. (sigh)

A perfect solution to purge yourself of the grit and heat of the city,  is to waste some time in a local traditional hammam. Removing layers of your skin with deep scrubbing, and dodging other peoples discarded hair and dirty bath water in the communal areas. I probably didn't quite sell you on that, did I?

There are a many options of Hammam in Marakech, and throughout Morocco. Moroccans have been "hammam-ing" since they could fit in a bucket. You can book your experience and scrub at hotels such as Sofitel, Saadi Palace and Hvervinage. Ranging from $50 - $100 for an experience in the lux environment. Here you can also lounge in the relaxation room, pre or post hammam, utilize the pools, and have your choice of top of the line products and essential oils. Extending your experience beyond the typical hour.

There are also hotels such as Mogador or Bain Marjorelle, landmarks in Marrakech, where a private scrub and hammam will range from $8-12. This includes a local Hammam attendant, taking her loofah glove to you, like you're an old pot covered in rust. Part of the novelty and enjoyment. If you're not going to arise from the lowly lit steam rooms like a phoenix. Reborn. Well, your skin at least. You might as well have stayed in your own bathroom.

I frequent my neighborhood hammam, in derb laksour. I wanted to full traditional experience. I got it. After the first time, I wasn't so sure I would return. Through 12 years of work in the spa industry, I've pretty much seen it all. I was not sure what to expect from a local Moroccan Hammam. No frills, no extras, just traditional washing and socializing. I was excited. I had picked up my "hammam kit" in the sook. Trust me, you will want to take the time to pick up a few things. It may seem like your kid's sand box play set, but its necessary.



Local hammams, are just a series of tiled chambers with rounded ceilings to contain heat, and allow the water to run down. Ranging from coolest, to hottest, deep in the hammam. You check in with the attendant, pay your $1, maybe a few extra dirhams, to rent a bucket, or have her watch your bag.



Dis robe in the open area, leave your clothes and towel in the first chamber, and enter the bustle of naked bodies, soaps, scents, and steam. The first time, I made my way to the back, and found a semi clean space against the wall. I would recommend looking for a space upstream from the drains and faucet's. Usually with a wall to your back. This will mimimize the hairballs, skin clumps, and secondary splashing of used water in your space. Or on you.

Ok, your idea of a relaxing hammam, is not hairballs, and public bikini line shaving? Mine either. It gets better. This is a clean hammam. Cleaned regularly, I watched the attendants, clean it myself. This does get a little more difficult, when a 10 x 10 mt. room is full of 12-15 Moroccan bathers, kids, and buckets in tow.So when full, may not seem as clean.

Here you can still have the attendant scrub you for and extra $2. Bring your own pad, as she will command you lay down on the floor to do so. So unless you want to lay on the tile, a yoga mat, or plastic sheet/tablecloth will suffice. Plan on 1-2 hours to thouroughly wash, brush, scrub, comb, hydrate, and even shave, should you go that route. This is a ritual after all. The more time and buckets the better. This way when the heat and steam, increases your heart beat, you can cool down with a splash from your cold water bucket. Like the ancient Roman baths, the hot and cool plunges stimulate the circulation and open and close the pores for better inner and outer cleansing.


My first time was a little more challenging than subsequent visits. We went at 8.30 at night. Prime scrubbing time, to be followed up by hot tea, and tumbling into bed. There was minimal space for bathing and moving. A little too much excess water throwing from other bathers, and a wait to change out the water in your bucket. (this is not good, when there is soap in your eye) Of course, being me, I attract children like flies. Meaning a couple of small girls decided that they would entertain themselves by throwing water at me. Yes, their bathing water. What can you say, it was still cute, and I made the most of it. Smiling and throwing some back.

I suggest visiting the hammam first thing in the morning. It's virtually empty. That much better to drag your buckets, back and forth from your stool to the taps, over and over again. Surround your self with 3 or 4 buckets or varying temperatures. Slather on the black beldi soap, steep your skin, and begin scrubbing. Dump cascades of water buckets over yourself, and breathe in the hot steam. Enjoy the echo of some chatter in the chambers, a peek of sunlight from the domed roof, and emerge relaxed and ultra clean.

Local hammams are not for the timid or prudish. You bathe naked. Some keep on underwear.  And it is tradition to have your nearest nieghbor srcub your back. In this case my roommate, gave me a good scrub.. It's commom to see people in the streets with their hammam kit in hand, heading to or floating home from the hammam.

Don't mind the locals commenting as you walk from a hamman in the sook. Ohhh, hamamam, hammam?
Ohhh fresh, fresh? OOhhh good! It's their nature, to comment on pretty much anything.

After an early morning plunge. I'm ready to get back into the grit of Marrakech, and start the day with energy. 


More information on Hammams in the area if your interested @ Jnane Mogador , Bain Marjorell, Sofitel, Saadi Palace, Hirvenage.









Monday, August 6, 2012

THE ART OF ARABIC

To most, outside of the Arab world, using alternative shapes in place of letters to read and write, seems about as appealing as communicating in mores code. My two cents? They are missing out.

The Arabic alphabet (Arabic: أَبْجَدِيَّة عَرَبِيَّة’abjadiyyah ‘arabiyyah) or Arabic abjad is the Arabic script as it is codified for writing the Arabic language. It is written from right to left, in a cursive style, and includes 28 letters.(wikipedia) Plus several fun vowels and accents to determine where the sound is placed.


(July 20 to August 20) Ramadan continues, producing many more flags and banners around the city. Quotes of motivation and devotion for the sacred month. Such as the one above from the main sqaure.

I visited Marrakech to take a career break and focus on the study of Classic Arabic. With a connection I found the Visa school of Marrakech, located just off the main Avenue in the new city of Gueliz. They've proven to be flexible, friendly, and efficient.I couldnt have asked for more as I ventured into the unknown sounds and letters of Arabic. Why go to Morocco to study Arabic? It's a valid question, as in most day to day interactions in Morocco the main language of choice continues to be French (with a lot of French ex pats) and Derija, a local Mauracshi dialect.

I chose it because of  a long fascination with the magical cities of Morocco. The stories of Kings, love stories, and ancient Berber and Bedouine tribes. (besides all that Casablanca movie stuff) Of course the spectacluar deserts and awaited camel rides and lots of heat, heat, heat appealed to me as well.


I love walking by this small shop in the sook, above. Wall to wall books of Arabic classics and studies. The small hand below, is the merchant ducking as a shot this photo. ;( Shukran Khohar, Shukran.

I chose to begin my Arabic studies classically (foos7a) with the Latin alphabet. Knowing myself, and my past learning of other languages, I felt it was best to get a solid base of vocabulary under my belt. A lot of people say this is the wrong way to do it. I can't vouch for them. For me, a solid ground of vocabulary, and Arabic verb conjugation, proved to aid me in my speed of reading and writing with the Arabic alphabet. 

With the help of Native Moroccan teachers, like the ones below, I've gotten a solid base of Arabic. (and a few slang words too) I was able to attend the Moroccan Association of Teachers of  English conference here to see first hand their dedication and training. This association works to provide multi lingual teachers across the country.


After 8 weeks of study I can say I have a firm grasp, though limited conversational vocabulary of the language. I can also write and recite the alphabet and its variations. For me this gave me a rush of excitement. Simple I know, but when first presented with the shapes, words and alphabet styles, it can seem like climbing a glacier without the harness, ice ax, and crampons. Just sliding down a slippery dangerous slope.

I've always said you need to be willing to look and sound like a fool to learn a language. This is no expception. I've had my moments. Sounding out slowly, each Arabic letter, with coordinating vowels, until.....bam!, you have a word. Like teaching a child C-A-T,  k k k kaaattttt.....The final product is worth it! U7ibbo 3arabiya! Here is where to start:

ا    ب    ت    ث    ج    ح



م    ن    ه    و    ي

خ    د    ذ    ر    ز    سش    ص    ض    ط    ظ    ع

غ    ف    ق    ك    ل

Getting through a paragraph of Arabic words, or writing if from dictation, always gives me a burst of exhilaration. I can do something that a couple of months ago, seemed completely foreign. I've reached my goal. Even with the extra bonus that Arabic letters, change their shape. This depends on if it is at the beginning of a word, middle or a word, end of the word, or isolated. In short the same letter can look a few different ways, and with your practice and studies, you are to distingush the shape depending on surrounding letters and their vowels. Practice, practice, practice, makes perfect.

For example: Here are 4 shapes for the K sound. (Kha)
khā’ kh (also , ) /x/ ـخ ـخـ خـ خ
The studies and the country have proven to keep me entertained. I'm continuing to learn, and seek out it's magic. This is only my experience. There is a very long history of Arabic throughout the Arab world, I encourage you to explore.

Enjoy and seek out your own journey. Whether you want to learn Arabic for your own interests, work, school or religion, delve in. There is a beauty in this language that is not really expressed in others. The daughter of one of the teachers below, did not hold back as she shared her opinions throughout lunch with us at the MATE conference. A great way to learn Arabic. Immersion. Real families. The catch? You get to enjoy the beauty of the authentic face and personality of kids like this.


If you're looking for studies in classic Arabic in Morocco, there are plenty of schools. I researched several in Fez, near Quarzazate, and Essouria, with many of them centered in the main cities of Fez and Rabat.There are of course, many unbelievable cities to study in, Egypt being another. The Egyptian Arabic is the most widely spoken dialect of this ancient language. Good luck!

If you're in Marrakech, the Visa School contact is Abderahim. He would be happy to show you around!

Here are a few options to review depending on your needs, and budget.if your interested:
http://www.alif-fes.com/
http://www.igomorocco.com/

 http://www.qalamcenter.com/
http://www.speakmoroccan.com/




















Sunday, July 29, 2012

A7NA+NAN  JAYYED MASHA  =  NAS SA3EEDA

A quick evening stroll. I set out from my hidden door. Sun beginning to shadow walls of the sooks corridors. The Sirocco wind's sighs have died down, lifing some of the pressing heat. Camera, check, shopping cash, check, ipod on, check. Even in Marrkech, the now popular "Call Me Maybe" plays on. American hits can't be escaped. No worries, it's catchy enough, and a walk through the neighboorhoods and people watching from the cafe sidelines, is always fun....Enjoy a few shots from my "masha"

The flag is, as all nations know is a symbol of pride. It is displayed everywhere, even more so during Ramadan. Supporting the people. Already a week into Ramadan, we have three more to go. The fasting does make the streets a little less inhabited throughout the day. Easier to manuveur. It explodes after sunset, breaking the fast and evening prayer. With peoples bellies and hearts  full, the city is continually rushing.
The Kotoubia Mousque is just off Ave. Mohammed the 5th. Just outside my derb, and off the main square. At night the surrounding lights and the chant like prayers give it a more omnipotent air. During Ramadan temporary gates stage the space for 100's of Muslims to spill out of the Mosque and lay their musallah in prayer. (سجادةsajjāda pl. سجاجيد sajājīd, or musallah)
The large muted gold doors are usually closed to our neighboorhood mosque. Now slightly ajar, arms open, they wait for the daily prayers and crowds of Ramadan. It's one of my favorites.

Hidden amongst the ever winding streets. Old Riads (small homes) have been renovated into modernesque boutique hotels, marketing to tourism. Using the antiquated layouts. The new Riads highlight features like the open air gardens and salons, surrounded by rooms and coves set off to the side. Rising usually 3-4 stories up. Ending in the always celebrated roof top terrace.

The tiled entry way is detailed and the structured lanterns are like a throw back to the 1700's gas lighting. This one guides you home to Riad Zounia, near Bab Laksour, and our derb.
That's it for now. A quick saunter, and back to the comforts of home. I'll enjoy the slightly lower temperatures for now. Chergui Scirocco is sure to return. For us in Northern Africa,  days after the summer solstice also means the hottest winds and driest climate. Known as the Smam. A quick retreat to the Atlas Mountains seems in order.

More on Riads and Travel Guides tips to the Red City if your interested http://www.ilove-marrakesh.com/index_en.html 
http://www.timeout.com/travel/features/712/20-great-things-to-do-in-marrakech
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/jun/18/marrakech-morocco-arab-spring-tourism

Saturday, July 14, 2012

THUG LIFE - THE TRUE O.G.'S OF MARRAKECH

Bobbin' and dodgin' the summer crowds, endless mopeds zipping through the narrow streets, the shuffling of feet, kids, beggars, and the on slaught of barking merchants. You will find the people who make the crafts that are sold around the world, and in the sooks. They still have a true sense of creation and tradition.

A quick post of a series of those I dub the real original 'gangsters' of Marrakech. With this connotation I'm not implying these are thugs, rackateers or criminals. Just my dark sense of commentary to give some respect to the original generation who still practice the making of their product. No gangster thug comments please.I'm not writing to be politically correct. I'm writing to write.
Just a quick post of a series of interesting faces, workers and art, that to me, is much better than a postcard. Hope you like them.  

The guy above was humble and hardworking. There is a row in the sook dedicated to the re crafting of old tires. Yep, they are making pretty much everything you can think of with recycled tires. Tables, picture frames, mirror frames, clothes, bags, pots, carriers, on and on. 

A take on a ecological company called Tru Ekology . They had a notion to source recycled tire products and re sell them. Hand bags with a purpose. Besides being long lasting, and durable, which is why I have one.( I'm very hard on my hand bags). Tru Ekologiy has listed on their site their story of giving back. Hey I agree with what they are doing and I bid on my 'tire' bag from Tru Ekology, at a fund raiser in Costa Rica. Little secret, I've now found their supplier! Well, I'm not claiming its theirs. But I've found the same bags, and the ability to have the custom done here for approximatley $10. A difference in price of $30-50 more for the same at Tru Ekology.
 
Though living as an expat, I'm still an American, and we love capitalism. I wish Tru Ekology super success in what they do and give back in Costa Rica (my second home). Tru Dat! Next time you're in Marrakech you can grab a few cheap tire bags of your own. If you're not in Marrakech, shop online at Tru Ekology.com 

Above you'll see some containers fashioned from old tires, and a bag sample from Tru Ekology, just like the ones in the sook.  I'll try to post a second part series to this about tire products. They are fascinating and practical!

On to more O.G.'s.
 
The chofers of the donkey pulled carts. Hard working, and hauling ass. Used for pretty much everything in the area. Donkey pulled carts and their owners are demanded for construction sites, to move houses, products, and people. 

Let's not forget the donkeys here. They too are livin' the Thug Life. Toasting in the Morroc-shi sun, slapped by their owners and braying that echos through the thin streets. They deserve a little shout out.

The cart pullers. Really, that must be a challenge on days ranging from 35-50C. A population constantly using the human mode to transport goods.


The Entertainment Makers. It doesn't matter the country or culture. People like balloons and fun. Caught in Essaouira at a festival. This man provides much needed entertainment for the children.


The Traditional Cedar Carvers. Much respect to the small business owner here. Still using the traditional way of making cedar products with melting away the wood by the heat of friction.
Just his man power, some string and the wood. He creates wood carvings to lay in clothes to keep moths away. Skewers, and intricate bottles to hold the black khol eye coloring so popular here, among other things.


The Aspiring Musicians. Practicing in the coastal sun. This small musician, strums his strings on a traditional Moroccan instrument. While not playing he sells traditional and Arabic music and C.D.'s.


That's it for now. There is an old Italian saying "What the eyes don't see, the heart can't feel".....well I hope that your eyes capture as many remarkable things as possible, daily. 



LAWSONIA INTERMIS - SAY WHAT? 

A benign shrub, lawsonia intermis, is crushed into powder to make natural henna. Add a little water or eucalyptus oil and 'viola'! Find yourself and expert in the application of henna, and you're part of a little club of local tradition.

The intricate temporary tattoos that originated in Egypt according to most Arabic histories. The English name "henna" comes from the Arabic حِنَّاء (ALA-LC: ḥinnāʾ / pronounced [ħɪnˈnæːʔ] 
I know you love those fun facts you can use around the water cooler. 

When I first arrived in Morocco, I did a bit of the tourist circuit and because I was impatient was suckered into a henna tattoo in the infamous Place Jamaa El Fna in Marrakech. Paying twice as much as I should, I received a 5 minute application of black henna. While the artist and her crownies obviously talked badly about surrounding tourists. (that is a subject for another time) I watched the spectacle. (this is in no way a negative of all Moroccan people)

Black henna apparently should be avoided. Having found horror stories around the internet, about the permanent scarring, allergies and chemical reactions in the body. I was lucky this was not my case. I live in the heart of the sook with an international mix of people. One of whom I heard, direct from the mouth, a black henna horror story of the allergic reaction to black henna. During the preparation for her own wedding! And the subsequent marks of the henna shapes on her body for a year!

It may be that people are not educated about it, or its cheaper and easily accessible. But it is being applied to many visitors in the area. The agent of disaster in the mix is called, paraphenylenediamine, or PPD for short. PPD is a chemical that contains a compound that is derived from phenylenediamine, which is a toxic substance. Things we tend to avoid on or in our body.

This time myself and a house mate vistied the local home of a Moroccan family. One of the members of the family is an expert in henna. There are many different styles of henna application, coming from diverse histories and locations for 5000 years. India, Morocco and the Arab world. 

I opted for Beldi style application, you can see above. Small rectangular, linear and triangle designs make up the architecture. My housemate opted for Beldi and Sahara style. Including larger squares, moons, and shapes influenced from the local area. This time a much more pleasant experience. Though long, about an hour each for application, this is nothing compared to when someone is really preparing for a wedding or celebration. We took our time, visited with the family, had a post henna application of lemon juice, oil and garlic to secure the henna on our skin. Then enjoyed some fermented milk as a refreshment. Thanks to my housemate for the visit and introducing me to Fatima, Marwa and the rest of the family. Was beautiful!

While I'm sure our henna outing is riveting for you. If you have a chance, its a nice temporary way to participate in a ritual steeped in culture. Since Muslims are forbidden to have tattoos or permenant "destruction" of their body, henna is a great way to decorate your body, hair, nails, or even clothes.

It's a way to socialize, and connect with those around you in the process. 

Just take care to not get black henna. Below you can see an example of the scarring effects it can have. I just had to post one photo of it.

Real henna is a burnt orange color and is natural. Black henna is not henna. Hence the raised eyebrows, and "oh you should be careful about that" comments when I first had mine done in Marrakech.  

More on henna if you;re interested @ wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henna
Find your own henna recipes if you're interested at http://tattoo.about.com/cs/hennamenu/a/henna_recipe.htm

Sunday, July 8, 2012

KNOCKING ON HEAVEN'S DOOR

A knock won't always get you into heaven....... sometimes it can't even get you to answer the pizza boy at your own front door. The Islamic or Muslim religion is an obvious and constant presence in Morocco. It's Arabicic meaning is "submission", and with the world news having bombarded our ears with words like "Koran" (Q'uran sacred book of religion) and "Jazeera" (means nothing but island) and "Taliban" (means nothing more than 'students') foreigners have been more exposed to the once closed world of Islamic religion.

However, most of the exposure has been biased one way or the other. Depending on which "side" you are on. Religion itself is a complex and intricate philosophy threaded through human emotion. 
An issue, I don't care to get into.

People have been knocking on heaven's door for a very long time.....only they can decide if they are heard.  

Insha'Allah (God willing).

Needless to say, I chose to live (temporarily) in a Muslim country. I'm am making my way through the "tourist" sites, and differences of culture.

I took a stroll to the famous Koutoubia Mosque near my neigborhood. A well known landmark. You can follow the prevalent signs everywhere, to the Mosque gardens and entrance. You'll find signs at any entrance into the old medina.The gardens are a quick and tranquil get away from the street chaos, but don't try to walk on the grass!

I have to say, the visit was a little disappointing since non muslims cannot enter the Mosque to view the awesome structure. There was a door keeper of sorts who would have stopped any non muslim looking person from entering. So I'm told.

I could have tried and given myself an appointed Muslim name as entrance...maybe it should be....Jameela Sadee9a.... or beautiful friend! Don't hold me accountable for my own translation, as I'm going off my recent Arabic studies. Besides, I'm being a little irreverent.

Islam, states that its really only necessary to change your name when converting to Islam, if your name holds a negative or bad meaning. Since 'Elizabeth' has been around since the dawn of time and means, "The vow of God" or "My God is a vow", I think I'm good. Wheeew....

The Koutoubia Mosque or Kutubiyya Mosque (Arabic: جامع الكتبيةArabic pronunciation: [jaːmiʕu‿lkutubijːa(h)]) is the largest mosque in Marrakech, and stated to be on the top list of things to do in Marrakech! I won't bore you with the hostorical details. You want more Moroccan and architectural history? Link up.

A quick point of the good ol' Lumix and I can capture what I can't participate in. Outside you'll see the tower and loud speakers for the 5 daily prayers. Inside you see a reverance. An ancient tradition.

I may not be Muslim, but the structures created in the name of religion have always had a deep rooted respect in me. The Cathedrals of Europe, Walls of Jerusalem, Temples of Asia, Mosques of the Middle East and MENA.... I've always been able to enter. Until now. Probably won't be the last time. Still, it leaves me with a desire to be a part of that. The stillness.

For now, I'll be satisfied with the business of the surrounding grounds, and the history.
Watching people come and go.

Whether in traditional kaftans, hijabs, veils, or polo shirts. The Mosque is always an attraction for tourists, and a place of peace for locals. Even foreign locals who have converted....as long as you show your "paper" of conversion with your Islamic name. So I've been told by those with obvious foreign ethnicity, who've been stopped at the Mosques door.

Ramadan is almost upon us. July 20th to be exact. Things will change around here. And many will need the prayers to get through the month long fasting. Forbidden to put anything into the body that is from the outside. That includes second hand smoke, and aspirin for a headache!

For now, I'll enjoy the sound of the call to prayer daily. And knowing I've had a closer look at the ever looming Koutoubia. I pass by it daily to school, dinner, or my frequent wanderings. It's visible from most locations in the city center.

Though these photos, won't do justice to the structure. They're my photos. And doesn't that always give us a bit of closeness? :)

Sidebar: The Five Pillars of Islam:
1. "Shahadah": The Testimony that there is none worthy of worship except God and that Muhammad is his messenger.
2. " Salah": Establishing of the five daily Prayers
3. " Zakat": The Giving of Zakaah (charity), which is one fortieth (2.5%) of the net worth of possessions kept for more than a year.
4. "Ramadan". Fasting for the faith
5. " Hajj": The Pilgrimage (Hajj) to Mecca during the month of Dhul Hijjah, which is compulsory once in a lifetime for one who has the ability.


More on Ramadan if you're interested @ http://french.about.com/library/travel/bl-ma-ramadan2.htm
and more on Mosques and history of Marrakech @  http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Africa/Morocco/Wilaya_de_Marrakech/Marrakesh-2111278/Things_To_Do-Marrakesh-Koutoubia_Minaret_Koutoubia_Gardens-BR-1.html

Sunday, June 24, 2012

THE MIAMI OF MOROCCO - A PORT TOWN TO REMEMBER


Braving the rising sands, port winds and extra crowds for the famous Essaouira Gnaoua World Music Festival was an experience. In the port town with Portuguese influence and history, you'll find lookouts and high walls lined with canons ready for battle. An over run medina, like others in Morocco, where I found the merchants to be at least a little less agressive with passersby's than in Marrakech. And of course white sand beaches for miles. Though whipping with wind and a wild sea a little too cold for me, its home to wind surfing, kite surfing, and the resorts that equate it to the Miami of Morocco.

During the festival there wasn't much to do during the day but shopping, eating, and strolling on the beach. Yes, of course there are tours, sports and day trips to be booked, don't worry adventurers. The organizers of the festival had booths and marketing set up, and a traditional show on the beach. Above you'll see the white garbed riders running the beach. They prepare to raise their rifles in the air and shoot at the same time, while galloping at full speed. Originating from the Rif, the Fantasia war ceremony, is found mostly in the North, and is to represent the tribes best riders.They do this by charging at each other and shooting. Keeping in tradition from ancient war time attacks on berber and desert tribes, there are thousands of fantasia riders in Morocco.

With the Arab horses being as strong and beautiful as they are, this fantasia tradition also represents the tight relationship with man and horse. Called Fantasia Horses, though the original name for this ceremony was called game of gun powder.....in Essaouira there were no shortage of horses.. Everywhere on the beach. Well kept, and majestic, the Arabian horses lived up to their reputation.

The Gnaoua Festival 2012 is the 15th of its kind. Always in Essaouira, and always with award winning bands. This year was no different

The music roster included those from Mali, Iran, Senegal, France, and many others. 

Gnaoua music, from Morocco is their version of reggae. Tradition clothing for Gnaoua musicians is influenced by the colorful patterns of Africa, and the tassels on the tight caps are kept spinning with a little head nod.

Mixes of both mellow and soothing tunes to very enthusiatic beats and acrobatic dancing were the festival highlights. Personally I was mesmerized by the 3 year old Gnaoua player on stage. Adding to the beats and gettin' his groove on, no doubt this is ingrained in the culture. Is it bad I kept thinking it was way past his bed time? ;)


I laughed all night at the Moroccan boys showcasing their dance hall skills for us. It was awesome. 


Well that's it bloggers. After the festival, I'm a little worn out. It was a quick break from the city. Relaxing beaches and great celebration. I'll make plans to go again to enjoy more of the city, without all the extra people. I took a comfy bus from Supra Tours. Three hours, can be a painful ride from Marrakech to Essaouira, but it had A/C and a snack break to soften the blow.

Next time, I'll explore more architecture, the fresh seafood, colorful photo opp's, and one of the many Riads offered. Since this is supposed to be the romantic seaside town of Morocco, maybe next time I'll go for a little romance. Only complaint......it was freezing (by my standards) with strong port winds, the days can be chilly, but the nights are down right cold. Take it in stride as this is a person accustomed to tropical and desert weather!Remember to take your jackets and scarves. (I was not properly attired) The air is constantly filled with sand so a great pair of glasses helps, and enjoy the complimentary micro dermabrasion facial ladies!

For more to do in Essaouira, check out their City Guide. 
                                                                                
If there is a festival in town, book your location in advance. The Gnaoua festival attracts thousands of people. Orignally we planned to camp out. Yes, camp it, on a designated terrace you can rent a space. Lucky for us, we found a local apartment still open at the last minute, 1 block from the beach. Humble, but great for the festival. Sometimes these can be found talking with locals, who want to make some money. Renting to us for $100, probably paid his rent for the month.                                                                                                                                               
There are lots of Riads on the beach and surrounding areas. Chose from bucks to shucks. Prices vary widely.                                                                                    

Since buses are the staple transportation system in many countries like Morocco, you can chose the public transport buses, CTM, or Supra Tours, prices ranging from $1.50 - $10. Others chose to rent a car. The roads and signs are pretty clear so you shouldn't have a problem with this. From Marrakech its about 3 hours, from Casablanca about 7 1/2. You get the idea.