I Prefer To See Things My Way, Not Necessarily The Way They Happened...

Sunday, June 24, 2012

THE MIAMI OF MOROCCO - A PORT TOWN TO REMEMBER


Braving the rising sands, port winds and extra crowds for the famous Essaouira Gnaoua World Music Festival was an experience. In the port town with Portuguese influence and history, you'll find lookouts and high walls lined with canons ready for battle. An over run medina, like others in Morocco, where I found the merchants to be at least a little less agressive with passersby's than in Marrakech. And of course white sand beaches for miles. Though whipping with wind and a wild sea a little too cold for me, its home to wind surfing, kite surfing, and the resorts that equate it to the Miami of Morocco.

During the festival there wasn't much to do during the day but shopping, eating, and strolling on the beach. Yes, of course there are tours, sports and day trips to be booked, don't worry adventurers. The organizers of the festival had booths and marketing set up, and a traditional show on the beach. Above you'll see the white garbed riders running the beach. They prepare to raise their rifles in the air and shoot at the same time, while galloping at full speed. Originating from the Rif, the Fantasia war ceremony, is found mostly in the North, and is to represent the tribes best riders.They do this by charging at each other and shooting. Keeping in tradition from ancient war time attacks on berber and desert tribes, there are thousands of fantasia riders in Morocco.

With the Arab horses being as strong and beautiful as they are, this fantasia tradition also represents the tight relationship with man and horse. Called Fantasia Horses, though the original name for this ceremony was called game of gun powder.....in Essaouira there were no shortage of horses.. Everywhere on the beach. Well kept, and majestic, the Arabian horses lived up to their reputation.

The Gnaoua Festival 2012 is the 15th of its kind. Always in Essaouira, and always with award winning bands. This year was no different

The music roster included those from Mali, Iran, Senegal, France, and many others. 

Gnaoua music, from Morocco is their version of reggae. Tradition clothing for Gnaoua musicians is influenced by the colorful patterns of Africa, and the tassels on the tight caps are kept spinning with a little head nod.

Mixes of both mellow and soothing tunes to very enthusiatic beats and acrobatic dancing were the festival highlights. Personally I was mesmerized by the 3 year old Gnaoua player on stage. Adding to the beats and gettin' his groove on, no doubt this is ingrained in the culture. Is it bad I kept thinking it was way past his bed time? ;)


I laughed all night at the Moroccan boys showcasing their dance hall skills for us. It was awesome. 


Well that's it bloggers. After the festival, I'm a little worn out. It was a quick break from the city. Relaxing beaches and great celebration. I'll make plans to go again to enjoy more of the city, without all the extra people. I took a comfy bus from Supra Tours. Three hours, can be a painful ride from Marrakech to Essaouira, but it had A/C and a snack break to soften the blow.

Next time, I'll explore more architecture, the fresh seafood, colorful photo opp's, and one of the many Riads offered. Since this is supposed to be the romantic seaside town of Morocco, maybe next time I'll go for a little romance. Only complaint......it was freezing (by my standards) with strong port winds, the days can be chilly, but the nights are down right cold. Take it in stride as this is a person accustomed to tropical and desert weather!Remember to take your jackets and scarves. (I was not properly attired) The air is constantly filled with sand so a great pair of glasses helps, and enjoy the complimentary micro dermabrasion facial ladies!

For more to do in Essaouira, check out their City Guide. 
                                                                                
If there is a festival in town, book your location in advance. The Gnaoua festival attracts thousands of people. Orignally we planned to camp out. Yes, camp it, on a designated terrace you can rent a space. Lucky for us, we found a local apartment still open at the last minute, 1 block from the beach. Humble, but great for the festival. Sometimes these can be found talking with locals, who want to make some money. Renting to us for $100, probably paid his rent for the month.                                                                                                                                               
There are lots of Riads on the beach and surrounding areas. Chose from bucks to shucks. Prices vary widely.                                                                                    

Since buses are the staple transportation system in many countries like Morocco, you can chose the public transport buses, CTM, or Supra Tours, prices ranging from $1.50 - $10. Others chose to rent a car. The roads and signs are pretty clear so you shouldn't have a problem with this. From Marrakech its about 3 hours, from Casablanca about 7 1/2. You get the idea.

                                                                                    

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