HAMMAM-ING: PURGING THE GRIME AND HEAT OF THE CITY
I've probably lost several pounds in the last week, wandering through Marrakech as temperatures reach the 50's. (about 125 F) Bottle affter bottle of water, not quite cutting it. Add to that, its Ramadan. Everyone is fasting from sunrise to sunset, and there is no eating or drinking in public. No, I'm not Muslim, but I will respect the rules. That includes no bottled water on my walks. (sigh)
A perfect solution to purge yourself of the grit and heat of the city, is to waste some time in a local traditional hammam. Removing layers of your skin with deep scrubbing, and dodging other peoples discarded hair and dirty bath water in the communal areas. I probably didn't quite sell you on that, did I?
There are a many options of Hammam in Marakech, and throughout Morocco. Moroccans have been "hammam-ing" since they could fit in a bucket. You can book your experience and scrub at hotels such as Sofitel, Saadi Palace and Hvervinage. Ranging from $50 - $100 for an experience in the lux environment. Here you can also lounge in the relaxation room, pre or post hammam, utilize the pools, and have your choice of top of the line products and essential oils. Extending your experience beyond the typical hour.
There are also hotels such as Mogador or Bain Marjorelle, landmarks in Marrakech, where a private scrub and hammam will range from $8-12. This includes a local Hammam attendant, taking her loofah glove to you, like you're an old pot covered in rust. Part of the novelty and enjoyment. If you're not going to arise from the lowly lit steam rooms like a phoenix. Reborn. Well, your skin at least. You might as well have stayed in your own bathroom.
I frequent my neighborhood hammam, in derb laksour. I wanted to full traditional experience. I got it. After the first time, I wasn't so sure I would return. Through 12 years of work in the spa industry, I've pretty much seen it all. I was not sure what to expect from a local Moroccan Hammam. No frills, no extras, just traditional washing and socializing. I was excited. I had picked up my "hammam kit" in the sook. Trust me, you will want to take the time to pick up a few things. It may seem like your kid's sand box play set, but its necessary.
Local hammams, are just a series of tiled chambers with rounded ceilings to contain heat, and allow the water to run down. Ranging from coolest, to hottest, deep in the hammam. You check in with the attendant, pay your $1, maybe a few extra dirhams, to rent a bucket, or have her watch your bag.
Dis robe in the open area, leave your clothes and towel in the first chamber, and enter the bustle of naked bodies, soaps, scents, and steam. The first time, I made my way to the back, and found a semi clean space against the wall. I would recommend looking for a space upstream from the drains and faucet's. Usually with a wall to your back. This will mimimize the hairballs, skin clumps, and secondary splashing of used water in your space. Or on you.
Ok, your idea of a relaxing hammam, is not hairballs, and public bikini line shaving? Mine either. It gets better. This is a clean hammam. Cleaned regularly, I watched the attendants, clean it myself. This does get a little more difficult, when a 10 x 10 mt. room is full of 12-15 Moroccan bathers, kids, and buckets in tow.So when full, may not seem as clean.
Here you can still have the attendant scrub you for and extra $2. Bring your own pad, as she will command you lay down on the floor to do so. So unless you want to lay on the tile, a yoga mat, or plastic sheet/tablecloth will suffice. Plan on 1-2 hours to thouroughly wash, brush, scrub, comb, hydrate, and even shave, should you go that route. This is a ritual after all. The more time and buckets the better. This way when the heat and steam, increases your heart beat, you can cool down with a splash from your cold water bucket. Like the ancient Roman baths, the hot and cool plunges stimulate the circulation and open and close the pores for better inner and outer cleansing.
My first time was a little more challenging than subsequent visits. We went at 8.30 at night. Prime scrubbing time, to be followed up by hot tea, and tumbling into bed. There was minimal space for bathing and moving. A little too much excess water throwing from other bathers, and a wait to change out the water in your bucket. (this is not good, when there is soap in your eye) Of course, being me, I attract children like flies. Meaning a couple of small girls decided that they would entertain themselves by throwing water at me. Yes, their bathing water. What can you say, it was still cute, and I made the most of it. Smiling and throwing some back.
I suggest visiting the hammam first thing in the morning. It's virtually empty. That much better to drag your buckets, back and forth from your stool to the taps, over and over again. Surround your self with 3 or 4 buckets or varying temperatures. Slather on the black beldi soap, steep your skin, and begin scrubbing. Dump cascades of water buckets over yourself, and breathe in the hot steam. Enjoy the echo of some chatter in the chambers, a peek of sunlight from the domed roof, and emerge relaxed and ultra clean.
Local hammams are not for the timid or prudish. You bathe naked. Some keep on underwear. And it is tradition to have your nearest nieghbor srcub your back. In this case my roommate, gave me a good scrub.. It's commom to see people in the streets with their hammam kit in hand, heading to or floating home from the hammam.
Don't mind the locals commenting as you walk from a hamman in the sook. Ohhh, hamamam, hammam?
Ohhh fresh, fresh? OOhhh good! It's their nature, to comment on pretty much anything.
After an early morning plunge. I'm ready to get back into the grit of Marrakech, and start the day with energy.
More information on Hammams in the area if your interested @ Jnane Mogador , Bain Marjorell, Sofitel, Saadi Palace, Hirvenage.
I've probably lost several pounds in the last week, wandering through Marrakech as temperatures reach the 50's. (about 125 F) Bottle affter bottle of water, not quite cutting it. Add to that, its Ramadan. Everyone is fasting from sunrise to sunset, and there is no eating or drinking in public. No, I'm not Muslim, but I will respect the rules. That includes no bottled water on my walks. (sigh)
A perfect solution to purge yourself of the grit and heat of the city, is to waste some time in a local traditional hammam. Removing layers of your skin with deep scrubbing, and dodging other peoples discarded hair and dirty bath water in the communal areas. I probably didn't quite sell you on that, did I?
There are a many options of Hammam in Marakech, and throughout Morocco. Moroccans have been "hammam-ing" since they could fit in a bucket. You can book your experience and scrub at hotels such as Sofitel, Saadi Palace and Hvervinage. Ranging from $50 - $100 for an experience in the lux environment. Here you can also lounge in the relaxation room, pre or post hammam, utilize the pools, and have your choice of top of the line products and essential oils. Extending your experience beyond the typical hour.
There are also hotels such as Mogador or Bain Marjorelle, landmarks in Marrakech, where a private scrub and hammam will range from $8-12. This includes a local Hammam attendant, taking her loofah glove to you, like you're an old pot covered in rust. Part of the novelty and enjoyment. If you're not going to arise from the lowly lit steam rooms like a phoenix. Reborn. Well, your skin at least. You might as well have stayed in your own bathroom.
I frequent my neighborhood hammam, in derb laksour. I wanted to full traditional experience. I got it. After the first time, I wasn't so sure I would return. Through 12 years of work in the spa industry, I've pretty much seen it all. I was not sure what to expect from a local Moroccan Hammam. No frills, no extras, just traditional washing and socializing. I was excited. I had picked up my "hammam kit" in the sook. Trust me, you will want to take the time to pick up a few things. It may seem like your kid's sand box play set, but its necessary.
Local hammams, are just a series of tiled chambers with rounded ceilings to contain heat, and allow the water to run down. Ranging from coolest, to hottest, deep in the hammam. You check in with the attendant, pay your $1, maybe a few extra dirhams, to rent a bucket, or have her watch your bag.
Dis robe in the open area, leave your clothes and towel in the first chamber, and enter the bustle of naked bodies, soaps, scents, and steam. The first time, I made my way to the back, and found a semi clean space against the wall. I would recommend looking for a space upstream from the drains and faucet's. Usually with a wall to your back. This will mimimize the hairballs, skin clumps, and secondary splashing of used water in your space. Or on you.
Ok, your idea of a relaxing hammam, is not hairballs, and public bikini line shaving? Mine either. It gets better. This is a clean hammam. Cleaned regularly, I watched the attendants, clean it myself. This does get a little more difficult, when a 10 x 10 mt. room is full of 12-15 Moroccan bathers, kids, and buckets in tow.So when full, may not seem as clean.
Here you can still have the attendant scrub you for and extra $2. Bring your own pad, as she will command you lay down on the floor to do so. So unless you want to lay on the tile, a yoga mat, or plastic sheet/tablecloth will suffice. Plan on 1-2 hours to thouroughly wash, brush, scrub, comb, hydrate, and even shave, should you go that route. This is a ritual after all. The more time and buckets the better. This way when the heat and steam, increases your heart beat, you can cool down with a splash from your cold water bucket. Like the ancient Roman baths, the hot and cool plunges stimulate the circulation and open and close the pores for better inner and outer cleansing.
My first time was a little more challenging than subsequent visits. We went at 8.30 at night. Prime scrubbing time, to be followed up by hot tea, and tumbling into bed. There was minimal space for bathing and moving. A little too much excess water throwing from other bathers, and a wait to change out the water in your bucket. (this is not good, when there is soap in your eye) Of course, being me, I attract children like flies. Meaning a couple of small girls decided that they would entertain themselves by throwing water at me. Yes, their bathing water. What can you say, it was still cute, and I made the most of it. Smiling and throwing some back.
I suggest visiting the hammam first thing in the morning. It's virtually empty. That much better to drag your buckets, back and forth from your stool to the taps, over and over again. Surround your self with 3 or 4 buckets or varying temperatures. Slather on the black beldi soap, steep your skin, and begin scrubbing. Dump cascades of water buckets over yourself, and breathe in the hot steam. Enjoy the echo of some chatter in the chambers, a peek of sunlight from the domed roof, and emerge relaxed and ultra clean.
Local hammams are not for the timid or prudish. You bathe naked. Some keep on underwear. And it is tradition to have your nearest nieghbor srcub your back. In this case my roommate, gave me a good scrub.. It's commom to see people in the streets with their hammam kit in hand, heading to or floating home from the hammam.
Don't mind the locals commenting as you walk from a hamman in the sook. Ohhh, hamamam, hammam?
Ohhh fresh, fresh? OOhhh good! It's their nature, to comment on pretty much anything.
After an early morning plunge. I'm ready to get back into the grit of Marrakech, and start the day with energy.
More information on Hammams in the area if your interested @ Jnane Mogador , Bain Marjorell, Sofitel, Saadi Palace, Hirvenage.
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